Now that Fashion Month has come and gone, and we have taken a look at the trends from New York, London, Milan, it’s now Paris’ turn.
Alexander McQueen spring/summer 2015 collection
Beautiful white Marc Quinn orchid sculptures greeted guests as they arrived to offer hints as to what to expect from the show.
Alexander McQueen often used Asian elements in his shows. Sarah Burton, his loyal archivist as well as his first assistant, found inspiration from the antique kimonos she began collecting on trips to Japan when she first started working with Alexander McQueen. Elegantly tailored capes with Oriental elements- mandarin collars, black and peony pink, pairing with flower patterns that flourished against the bold silver geometric lines and tulip sleeves – appeared to be the fresh take on the kimono, while wide kimono sleeves were dressed with plunging necklines, to keep things new and fashion- forward.
Burton transformed models into couture samurai warrior princesses for SS15 while capturing a romantic feel with skirts tailored like dense poufs of cherry-blossom petals and two pale pink, chiffon dresses paired with laser cut leather harnesses of course.
It is evident that inspiration came from Japan but essentially the contrasting elements between the fragility and strength, tradition and modernity, fluidity and severity gave this collection that wow-factor that we all expect from a McQueen collection.
Chanel Spring/Summer 2015 Collection
The Chanel show is one of my favourite spot on the fashion month schedule owing to its outstanding creations – this year was no different. Creative Director Karl Lagerfield transformed the Grand Palais into a street-like catwalk “Boulevard Chanel”, complete with real puddles, to reinforce the show’s street protest feel. Models turned freedom fighters dressed in ready-to-wear pieces, complemented the street-like surroundings, staged a feminist-themed protest march while carrying signs with provocative feminist statements on them – “History is her story”, “Make Fashion not war!”, “He For She”, “Ladies First!”. Cara Delevingne led the demo shouting ‘What do we want?’ into her Chanel beautified megaphone, followed by ‘When do we want it?’ with the other models chanting ‘NOW!’
The show revealed a hunger for a new and better era for women– And how could one not feel better in a perfectly tailored tweedy suit or double-breasted paint speckled skirt suits. To keep things flirty there were bright shades of pink, red, orange and purple blended together in an abstract water colour print on everything from flat boots and skirts to shirts and capes.
It seemed like the mission was to merge feminism and fashion, and following from such a significant month for feminism thanks to Emma Watson’s speech, the reviews on the Chanel show are mixed, but the conversation it’s creating—a debate over whether the show is a display of genuine feminism or an attempt to capitalise on the at-the-moment “trendiness” of the fight for gender equality—is of benefit to everyone.
Valentino Spring/Summer 2015 Collection
Creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli presented their Spring/Summer 2015 collection on the penultimate day of Paris Fashion Week. Prior to the show Valentino fashion house tweeted “Travels through 18th century Italy,” along with “The culture of beauty continues with seahorses and marine themed journeys to far away lands.” – Floaty dresses in sheer prints, it truly transported onlookers to a faraway seascape where golden seahorses and starfish are the only accessories needed.
Grace, femininity and exquisite elegance were the main focuses of the collection with subtle 70s touches here and there. The 2015 Valentino woman has a bohemian vibe to her thanks to delicate broderie anglaise, dreamy, fresh colour combinations and sheer fabrics together with gladiator sandals and colourful bags decorated with the same aforementioned prints.
With a watery flow as a theme, the dash of subtle golden rings spread across multiple fingers (similar to the shells and starfish placed in model’s hair) felt as though they were tiny treasures discovered from the sea. A subtle detail, but an exciting one too.
Stella McCartney Spring/Summer 2015 Collection
The Stella McCartney Spring/Summer 2015 collection channelled the seventies with a feeling of movement, ease and fragility. From a white carefree jumpsuit as the opening look to denim top and skirt combos with quirky zig-zags, it was all about daytime luxuries for the Stella McCartney woman this season.
It was sensual and soft, full of easy-breezy summer pieces with gorgeous detailed cut-outs in a timeless colour palette, collection of pure whites, soft creams, navy blues, black and salmon pink shades. On the whole, blue was the recurring colour throughout the show, from navy tone to eye-catching denim blue.
Hermes Spring/Summer 2015 Collection
After four years of designing the women’s ready-to-wear at Hermes, Christophe Lemaire presented his final collection on the final day of Paris fashion week. Lemaire will be leaving to concentrate on his own eponymous line. Replacing him will be Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, formerly of Céline and The Row, whose work we look forward to discovering in March.
The collection was full of sophisticated, luxurious pieces – dresses, tailored coats, dresses with shawl necklines and crisp white shirts – in the most sumptuous of materials, convey in peaceful, subtle, neutral colours. From cream, beige, white, sand hues, to navy blues, mustards, dusty pinks and some reds that were later joined with graphic geometric patterns, including stripes and checkered patterns.
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